Kitchen and Bath Specialists Share Ideas, Opinions

Have a question and looking for feedback from industry peers? This month, Kitchen & Bath Design News listens in on dialogue between industry professionals as excerpted from the KitchenBathPros.com online Design Discussion Forum.

In-Cabinet Lighting

Question
We’re currently specifying linear lighting such as Trac 12 for in-cabinet lighting. This works very well for single-door inset cabinets, where the fixture can be installed vertically behind the face frame on the non-hinge side with the lights facing toward the back of the cabinet.

However, when the size of the area behind the rail is limited by a hinge – as with a two-door cabinet – this does not work. With a full-overlay door, the lights are only visible from certain angles, and when installed facing toward the back, they look horrible when installed facing inward on a two-door cabinet.

Any ideas out there for how to address this?
—susan27

Response 1
I always use 10w Hafele pucks. They have Halogen and Xenon options available. I’ve mostly used the halogen, although some of our inspectors are leaning toward the Xenon these days. I think I might be in a lighting rut because I’m used to this system and more importantly my electrician is happy with it. I’ll be interested to see what everyone else is using.

I prefer using linear lighting because pucks only illuminate the top shelf, unless you use glass cabinets. And, even with glass, the light intensity slowly dissipates from top to bottom. I do prefer pucks for cabinets that have no shelving.
—Khat

Response 2
In my built-in dining room cabinets, I installed Tresco’s Cold Cathode Lighting vertically on either side of my butt doors. I have an old home, so I didn’t want to use glass shelves. I just prefer the wood shelves.

I’ve had my fixtures on constantly for three years now and I use it as a night light. The light that it gives off will alter some colors (similar to fluorescent), but I heard that they now have a warm bulb as well.
—Kompy

Response 3
My issue is that what works with inset does not work with full overlay. With inset doors you essentially get a double-width shield (one for the face frame and one for the door frame), but with full overlay the door overlaps the face frame so the little bulbs are not as well shielded. This results in being able to see the bulb from certain angles.
—Kompy

Response 4
What about strip lights (individual bulbs similar to low-voltage setups) that sit in a U-channel? That would hide the lights from view and you could paint the channel to match the cabinet color?
—MCR

Designer’s Block

Question
I am at the beginning of designing three new projects (one small kitchen and two master bathrooms) and find myself “blocked” and feeling very uncreative. Everything I do seems like the same old thing and not different at all.

Usually when I get like this, I resort to my trade magazines to see what else is out there and how I can incorporate those ideas into my designs. So now after doing just that, I have seen a few ideas, most of which seem to not be applicable to these design situations.

So my question is what do you do when you get stagnant and the ideas don’t flow?
—chrisc&d

Response 1
A lot depends on how much time you have before a deadline. Sometimes, when I just haven’t been ready for an upcoming meeting, I’ve said to a client, “I’m not fully prepared and I don’t want to rush.” They respect that. I don’t do it often, only when I have to.

Try working hours that you don’t normally work, maybe when it’s much quieter. I think quiet is an important piece to creativity. Being in a relaxed state is important for me, as well. You have to get yourself fully into the zone, and then good ideas start flowing.
—susanckd

Response 2
A few years ago, I started my own ‘inspiration album’ on my computer. I have a ton of categories, such as old house kitchens, hood designs, two-tone kitchens, etc. Over the years, when I see a jpeg online, I just copy it to my inspiration folder.